My kitchen diary: Carnival time!

Just like in many other countries, besides the religious connotations, carnival (farsang) in Hungary marks the weakening reign of winter and the coming of the glorious spring. Although feasts are not as numerous and widespread as they used to be, some regions still keep their traditions alive. One of the most interesting traditions is busójárás , about which you can read here http://www.vendegvaro.hu/en/35-20172.

However, the gastronomical mark of carnival has not been forgotten over the times and doughnuts are still happily made by grandmothers and mothers during this time of the year.

The most popular doughnut is the so-called "ribbon doughnut". The reason for the attribute "ribbon" is that when made properly, there is a lighter circle around the middle of the doughnut.

Although my aim is not to intimidate you from reading on, I cannot say that this is the easisest snack to make. There are many areas where you can go wrong, but with a little practice (and luck) you can get it right.

First of all, you need to get the dough perfect. It's an extremely sticky dough, difficult to manage. If it's not proven well, you'll end up with objects that can be used to kill LOL. So if you've never made yeasted dough before, I beg you not to start with this.

Secondly, the oil. It can be neither too hot nor too cold. If it's too hot, the doughnuts will burn quickly outside but remain raw inside - yuck! In the reverse case the doughnuts will absorb too much oil - not too pleasant either!

If you can escape these two pitfalls, you win - and what you win is worth all the effort! And to prove that I'm talking sense, I confess this is my first time of making doughnuts - as I'm so lucky as to have a grandmother around who has done it for me so far. But it was time I tried my luck with these!

Ribbon doughnuts

(makes about 20-25)

600 g plain flour

35 g baker's yeast

100 ml + 250 ml lukewarm milk

4 tbsp sugar

50 ml rum

4 egg yolks

1/2 tsp salt

zest of 1 lemon

70 g butter, melted and cooled slightly

oil for cooking

apricot jam for serving

Sift the flour (I know it's a bore, but you really need to do it for the dough being airy). Make a starter by crumbling the yeast in 100 ml milk, and adding 4 tbsp of the flour and 1 tsp of the sugar. Stir well, and let it sit for 15 minutes.

Heat the rum a bit and add the remaining sugar. Add it to the flour with the starter, egg yolks, salt, lemon zest. Add the milk step by step, using a wooden spoon or a dough hook. You need to add all the milk, it should be a very sticky dough, difficult to work. Add the butter gradually and work the dough for 5-6 minutes. My Beauty was a wonderful help with this!

Cover with a tea towel and let it rise for about 45 minutes, or until doubled in size (I put mine in the cold oven and turn on the light: this gives enough warmth for the dough to rise nicely).

Knead the dough quickly again, and spread it with your fingers on an oiled surface until about 1.5 cm thick. Dip an 8 cm round cookie cutter in oil and cut out circles (you can re-knead the leftover dough until all is gone). Transfer to a dusted surface, cover with a tea towel and let it rise for 20-30 minutes.

Press the middle of each circle with your thumb. Pour oil in a big casserole until it comes about 2-3 cm high. Heat it, add three-four doughnuts with the upper side down (!) in the oil and cover with a lid. Cook for about 1.5 minutes, then turn them over (do not stick anything in the dough) and cook the other side for the same time without the lid. Transfer to a plate with a kitchen towel.